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| With simple yet sophisticated light-weight silk shirt dresses featuring paint splatters, Jasper Conran brings an artistic vibe to his collection, inspired by his favourite artists' work: Jackson Pollock's splotches of colour, Yves Klein’s iconic blue and Pierre Soulages’ brushstrokes. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
LONDON is always a top trend-setter, with collections from the world’s leading designers and daring street styles. With all the looks and trends on offer what should we expect to see
this upcoming spring/summer? The trends for 2015 are lots of leather, long slouchy
skirts, clashing colors and minimalist whites. There were some surprising directions too like
flats on the runways and the return of flares.
Wearable is the New black
The first thing that comes to mind when looking at the beautiful, body conscious clothes on the Jasper Conran catwalk is how wearable and easy to move in they are. Mixing smart tailoring with a casual fit,
Conran’s collection this season had a much looser fit - described by the
designer as “sporty, summery and fresh”. Loafers, which also reappeared
on the runway, certainly added to the laid back style.
Using fabrics such as crisp cotton, organza and silk, the clothes are indeed ideal for summer. This season, he introduced his signature
contemporary British style of straight lines and below the knee dresses and
skirts. The use of color blocks and simple shapes with hints of the 1960’s
reoccurs, as seen in his previous collection.
The soundtrack of Lana Del Rey and Julia Holter created the
perfect soft ambiance for the slouchy tees, relaxed shirts and maxi dresses.
With simple yet sophisticated light-weight silk shirt dresses featuring paint
splatters, this season Conran brings a more artistic vibe to his collection
finding his inspiration from some of his favourite artists.
We can see familiar patterns reminiscent of Jackson
Pollock’s paintings, Yves Klein’s iconic blue and even Pierre Soulages’
brushstrokes. All of these combined with the ease of American sportswear
creates an accessible and timeless line.
Alongside a dominate theme of black and white,
Conran added to this season’s geometric constructions with a palette of toned down
hues such as aubergine, pigment blue and navy, warmed up by coffee browns and
greens, adding a natural and earthy feel to the collection.
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| Jasper Conran SS15: White and bitter chocolate silk chiffon layered floor length dress. Conran added to this season’s geometric constructions with a palette of toned down hues such as aubergine, pigment blue and navy, warmed up by coffee browns and greens. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
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| Jasper Conran SS15: Mixed palette silk crepe floor length dress. We can see familiar patterns reminiscent of Jackson Pollock’s paintings, Yves Klein’s iconic blue and even Pierre Soulages’ brushstrokes. All of these combined with the ease of American sportswear creates an accessible and timeless line. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
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| Jasper Conran SS15: Collage print mixed palette tennis dress. Using fabrics such as crisp cotton, organza and silk, the clothes are indeed ideal for summer. This season, Conran introduced his signature contemporary British style of straight lines and below the knee dresses and skirts. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
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| Jasper Conran SS15: Pigment blue coated cotton harrington, white cotton slim leg trouser. Mixing smart tailoring with a casual fit, Conran’s collection this season had a much looser fit - described by the designer as “sporty, summery and fresh”. Loafers, which also reappeared on the runway, certainly added to the laid back style. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
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| Jasper Conran SS15: Navy Blue cotton hooded jacket, navy blue cotton shirt dress with elasticated hem and waist. The first thing that comes to mind when looking at the clothes on the Jasper Conran catwalk is how wearable and easy to move in they are. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
Leather Rules
Leather dominated the catwalk at J.W Anderson’s show where large leather sunhats stole the show. Jonathan
William Anderson ~ who made his debut during Paris fashion week as Creative Director
of Loewe, the luxury leather brand ~ made beautiful use of his new resources by
creating a very feminine collection.
There were asymmetrical, modern designs: softly ruched crop
tops and matching skirts, butter-soft leather dresses, accessorized
with long sleeved gloves and thick belts with nautical buttons ~ a
strong theme for the whole collection.
With an audience including Anna Wintour and Olivia Palermo,
Anderson presented a collection with his signature minimalistic touch
describing it as “surrealist workwear and psychedelic, suspended architecture”.
The palette was neutral, monochrome with an occasional flash of brightness. There
was also a masculine meets feminine vibe with long white shirts juxtaposed
against fitted dresses. Garments were paired with pointed loafers with chunky
heels in shiny black, or lace-up deck shoe pumps in beige and pale blue.
Other than leather being the key fabric in this collection –
another trend alert to take from this collection – flares are back!
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| J.W Anderson SS15: Leather dominated the catwalk with large leather sun hats . Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC |
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| J.W Anderson SS15: Asymmetrical, modern designs: softly ruched crop tops and matching skirts, butter-soft looking leather dresses, accessorized with long sleeved gloves and thick belts with nautical buttons. Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC |
It's Cool to Clash
Roksanda’s SS15 collection was one of the most colorful,
bold and vibrant of those seen this season and another one that was inspired by
artists. For example, the designer referenced the American artist Julia Dault
in her use of perspex embellishments.
Roksanda resounded the same message which also came from the
New York runways: a continued love affair with orange. Her collection was definitely a standout of
bright, clashing pastels which ruled the runways.
Colours like royal blue with a tint of neon, rose, mint and
lilac dominated the catwalk, anchoring the softness of color with square
tailoring and architectural Miro-like forms alongside loosely draped
silhouettes which are another one of the key trends this season.
In the shoe department – there was not a wedge in sight! One
of the surprises this season were the low heels seen on most of the catwalks –
shoes were either matching flat sandals or low, geometric heels. Designed
in collaboration with British shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood, they added a
certain edge, something more street to the elegant collection.
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| Roksanda SS15: One of the most colorful, bold and vibrant collections of this season and another one was inspired by artists. For example, the designer referenced the American artist Julia Dault in her use of perspex embellishments. Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC |
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| Roksanda SS15: The collection resounded the same message which also came from the New York runways: a continued love affair with orange. Her collection was definitely a standout of bright, clashing pastels which ruled the runways. Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC |
Geometric, Stripes, Prints and Flower Power
Geometric patterning is a favorite with designers and we could see references to it in many of the SS15 collections: Matthew Williamson’s 1970’s, flower-inspired prints, Peter Pilotto’s bold, signature designs and Holly Fulton’s embellished dresses and midi-skirts ~ another standout trend this season.
But stripes were also stars and they dominated the Preen
collection. With an early morning show that only admired designers can get away
with, the design duo injected a caffeine-boost of excitement to their
9am catwalk.
There was a sense of overload to this season’s collection: stripes
met digital florals with multi-coloured fringes and lace ~ a stong hit of
vibrancy and energy.
Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen, known for their
clever cutting and experimental use of prints, were inspired by Massai cricket
warriors from the plains of Kenya. A very different theme than last season’s
Star Wars homage. It was Tribal meets sporty lux: tribal prints alongside
English cricket knits matched with a slick, shiny and bold hairstyle to
complete the look.
With asymmetric hemlines and wrap around skirts paired with
silk halter neck tops or body skimming dresses decorated with traditional
beading, they are looks we didn’t even know we wanted ~ but we do! The cool
prints were made even more fashionable with the hand-beaded fringes.
The colours felt fresh - bold blocks of it with white and black teamed with red. But the real power of the collection was the use of tonal
combinations plus mixing stripes and prints in a successful and very wearable way.
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| Holly Fulton SS15: The embellished dresses and printed midi-skirts were another standout trend this season. Photograph by Daniel Sims BFC |
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| Peter Pilotto SS15: Bold, signature prints of abstract leaves and flowers on new materials. Photograph by Daniel Sims BFC |
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| Preen SS15: The colours felt fresh - bold blocks of it with white and black teamed together. But the real power of the collection was the use of tonal combinations plus mixing stripes and prints, mixing them together in a very flattering way. Photograph by Christopher James BFC |
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| Preen SS15: A very different theme than last season’s Star Wars homage. It was Tribal meets sporty lux: tribal prints alongside English cricket knits matched with a slick, shiny and bold hairstyle to complete the look. Photograph by Christopher James BFC |
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| Preen SS15: Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, known for their clever cutting and experimental use of prints were inspired by Massai cricket warriors from the plains of Kenya. Photograph by Christopher James BFC |
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| Mathew Williamson SS15: Backstage at the show ~1970’s inspired prints and mirrored glasses. Photograph by Sam Wilson BFC |
The Return of the Midi-Skirt
Looking at collections such as Erdem, Temperly and Roksanda
along with those seen at Milan and Paris, we are definitely going to invest in
a midi-length full skirt to keep our SS2015 wardrobe up to date!
Confused by all the trends? Don’t be! From what we have seen
on the catwalks there is one thing that stood out ~ comfort is no longer the
enemy of style! Whether its
minimalist white, clashing colors, bold leather or nude chic, the real trend
this season was all about being wearable.
The oversized, relaxed yet feminine silhouettes of slouchy
skirts and sporty chic combined with flats replacing high heels were seen everywhere on the
London, Milan and Paris catwalks. And not only on the runways but also among
front-row VIP’s. We are curious to see if this trend will be with us next
season, but we think it is most unlikely we’ll see Vogue's Anna Wintour wearing
Nike any time soon….
Street Style London Fashion Week SS15
As always, street style is not about trends, but more about being noticed. Standing on the cobblestone streets around Somerset House, LFW headquarters, were fashionistas wearing cutting-edge looks from fur hats and Darth Vader sweaters to a metallic ensemble finished off with a cool monkey bag.
Hipster model Chris John Millington wore his signature beard and minimalist black and white coat and shirt and made a low-key contrast to the girls wearing facial jewellery and sports jackets and the long, colourful draping of a green-fringed fashion photographer.
As always, street style is not about trends, but more about being noticed. Standing on the cobblestone streets around Somerset House, LFW headquarters, were fashionistas wearing cutting-edge looks from fur hats and Darth Vader sweaters to a metallic ensemble finished off with a cool monkey bag.
Hipster model Chris John Millington wore his signature beard and minimalist black and white coat and shirt and made a low-key contrast to the girls wearing facial jewellery and sports jackets and the long, colourful draping of a green-fringed fashion photographer.
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| Snapped outside Somerset House, a photographer wearing a flowing, print tunic with red pantsuit and green-dyed short fringe. Photograph by Limor Helfgott |
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| Darth Vader sweater, fur hat and black moccasins made a quirky statement at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015. Photograph by Limor Helfgott |
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| Spotted at Somerset house in London (LFW headquarters), the always stylish Scottish model Chris John Millington wearing his signature beard and minimalist black and white. Photograph by Limor Helfgott |
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| Striking a pose at Somerset House : a monkey backpack finished of an individual look in a symphony of metallic colours and textures. Photograph by Mike Rolls |
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| Jewelled face decoration and bright-red lipstick were mixed with an Adidas sports jacket to create this fashionista's street look in London. Photograph by Mike Rolls |