 |
| The potent ceremonial atmosphere at Yuima Nakazato's AW24 haute couture show in Paris. Photograph and cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn |
In the rarified world of Parisian haute couture, few designers captivate the imagination like Yuima Nakazato. The new Unveil collection evinces his creativity and ability to merge historical inspiration with contemporary innovation. This season, the Japanese couturier drew on his work designing stage costumes for Mozart's opera Idomeneo. His compelling Autumn/Winter 2024 show explores the nature of human experience through the lens of ancient Greece, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Research by Antonio Visconti. Photographs by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn
 |
Yuima Nakazato backstage at his haute couture show in Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
The stately, measured pace of the show has a potent ceremonial atmosphere, with rousing moments from Mozart's Idomeneo. At the crescendo, one by one, the models open their long sleek, black robes to reveal a blood-red interior and crocheted vests of intertwining threads, like capillaries or printed, veined fabrics. These tailored, beautifully cut suits, crafted from wool and textiles made from proteins developed by Japanese start-up Spiber are designed as a challenge to utilitarian clothing. The sheen of the black exterior is a startlingly vivid contrast to the crimson inside, representing the life force.
"A lining of delicate, hand-knitted red thread emerges from the suit, the same color of the blood that flows through our veins," explains Nakazato. "My intention was to turn the state of being clothed into something that exposes the individual even more than wearing no clothing at all,"
While the red and white patterned long tunics and string-like vests seem like arteries in the human body, the sculptural Biosmocking designs are both otherworldly and elegant, like plants with lush leaves worn by young Greek gods. The glimmering, crocheted tunics embellished with ceramic pieces worn by the dancers makes them appear as soldiers.
"During combat, the most important feature of an item worn on
the body is its functionality, which is as true now as it was in ancient times," says the designer. "Utilitarianism also serves as a driving factor in evaluating the design of a garment in apparel mass production. By removing the usefulness and making them purely
decorative ~ inverting the original meaning of clothing ~ I sought to express my resistance
to this trend."
"My intention was to turn the state of being clothed into something that exposes the individual even more than wearing no clothing at all."
 |
Red ropes represent struggle, while fine red threads are like capillaries. The dancers' ceramic "armour" peals musically as they perform. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
Choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui brought Nakazato's vision to life on the runway with the dancers' movements accentuating the sonorous chimes from the ceramic pieces and enhancing the narrative's immersive quality.
The dynamic presentation underscored Nakazato's skillful integration of multiple art forms into a cohesive spectacle. The interplay of sound and motion on the runway blended performance art with high fashion.
The island of Crete, where the tale of Idomeneo unfolds against a backdrop of war and complex human relationships, originally inspired the opera stage design in Geneva with its entwined ropes. This time it is reinterpreted in Nakazato's show as a metaphor for an imbroglio and struggle.
"The scenes of armoured figures, entangled in red ropes representing the sea in the opera, hinted at multiple meanings, bringing me face to face with the unchanging nature of the human condition as it has stood from ancient times to the modern day," the designer comments.
The visual metaphor is also ingeniously enhanced by Nakazato's signature hand-made ceramic sculptural pieces which resonated through the show with a lilting musicality. Each piece is crafted from Japanese clay and meticulously shaped by Nakazato and his atelier team, transforming the wearer into a living instrument. The sounds created by the chiming of the ceramics offer a sensory aspect that draws the audience into the show.
The skillful integration of multiple art forms into a cohesive spectacle on the runway, blended performance art with high fashion
 |
The elegant, tailored robes in black with scarlet lining inside. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
Integrating innovative design and thoughtful storytelling, Nakazato deconstructs and reimagines ancient Greek motifs. His aim is to transcend the aesthetic by incorporating history and culture.
The designer's signature approach is to explore fashion as a medium for self-expression, social change and environmental responsibility. His work is a salutary reminder that fashion can not only clothe us as a protective layer but can be an effective artistic tool.
In an industry driven by fleeting trends, Yuima Nakazato is committed to both sustainability and creating beautiful, adaptable designs. His ability to weave together diverse elements ~ ancient narratives, modern technology, and ecological practices ~ sets a new standard for couture, one that is as intellectually stimulating as it is visually captivating.
Considering the best practices for the environment is an important part of the designer's work and is evident in his use of advanced technologies to create more ecologically friendly fashion. His collaboration with Epson on a new technology that recycles scraps generated during fibre production, transforms waste into new textiles. While digital printing with pigmented inks minimizes water and energy consumption. Garments made from these recycled materials underscore Nakazato’s ethos of creative reinvention
In an industry driven by fleeting trends, Nakazato sets a new standard for couture that is both intellectually stimulating and visually captivating
 |
Sculptural Biosmocking is a key part of Nakazato's designs. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
The look of the collection is further enriched by the designer's collaboration with Mikimoto on black pearl jewelry and hand-knitted accessories.
These pieces link the collection’s inspiration from the ancient world to a modern context while the shimmering dark pearls have a thematic resonance with the sea.
Each season, Nakazato's use of ceramics as wearable art is an avant-garde experiment in material and form, The designer likes to mix elements that are aesthetically interesting yet also invite philosophical inquiry into the role of fashion in expressing identity and emotion.
While his focus on new techniques reflects a futuristic mindset, Nakazato's reverence for historical themes makes his work rich in cultural references. He wants people to engage with the designs on a deeper level, to appreciate the stories woven into each garment, and to embrace the transformative and experimental nature of haute couture and its ability to illuminate a path forward in fashion.
Scroll down or tap pictures for full screen to see Yuima Nakazato's Autumn/Winter 2024 Collection
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024, Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024, Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumne/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph; Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato. Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Ell Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumm/Winter 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
 |
| Yuima Nakazato, Unveil, Paris Haute Couture, Autumne/Winter 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |